Friday, March 12, 2004
A Second Loop
KL – Penang – Singapore and back again
Erika and I went by bus to Penang, a little island about 4 hours north of here (where I nearly was going to live instead of KL). I invited a guy I had met for 15 minutes at the Cameron Highlands hostel where Bridget and I stayed. His name is Kin: Chinese, born and lived in KL until the age of eight, when he moved to Canada, where he most recently worked as a cargo pilot, but was laid off. So now he’s staying with some relatives and supposedly looking for a job, though it doesn’t seem he’s been trying too hard. I was hoping he was cool and the invite wasn’t a mistake, since I didn’t really know him—my instincts were right and he was a blast to have around.
On our first full day in Penang, we managed to figure out the bus system and get to the Snake Temple, a place where poisonous snakes are rendered harmless from the incense in the air. Then we went to Batu Muang, a ‘fishing village’ according to my guide book. We waited for a bus…and waited for a bus. A nice, bright yellow car slide up to us and honked, but we waved him on. I went to talk to a friendly couple working a portable coconut juice stand nearby to make sure we were in the right spot. They suggested we take a taxi or private car (that’s what the yellow car had been, it seems) because the buses were infrequent. After awhile, we decided to hitchhike. Kin had done it in Cameron Highlands, so stuck our thumbs out, though I was shy to do it. A few minutes later, another ‘private car’ came and so we hopped it. Not exactly hitchhiking, since we had to pay. He asked (in Malay) where we wanted to go in Batu Muang. Since we had no idea, we settled on a restaurant with “good food” (I was the spokesperson, with my limited, limited Malay). We ended up at an Indian café just like ones we could have gone to anywhere else and didn’t seem to get a sense that there was a ‘fishing village’ about.
After eating (I used my hands, to amuse the locals), we set off down the road in hopes of finding the waterfront. Along the way, I spotted a lizardy thing in a drainage ditch/canal that was about two feet long (though don’t quote me on that—I’m so bad at estimating distances!), plus a tail. We got directions, passed by a Buddhist temple, and ended up at another right alongside the docks. There were a lot of fishing boats and we decided to take a stroll out on the pier. This was actually more like walking the plank. There were gaps between the boards and questionable craftsmanship, making us worried that we’d end up taking a swim. As we neared the end, a group of men were at a side-docking area and a tiny Indian man in a pink shirt came out to talk to us. Again, I ended up being the spokesperson and for the rest of our time on the planks, he shouted his love for me to us. We went to the end, where we sat down to rest. We were offered some vodka from the men from afar and invited to go for a swim. We passed on both accounts.
Kin, being an outdoorsy type person, had a first aid kit and maybe a survival kit (?). I’m not sure, but among his stuff, he happened to have some fishing line and hook, so we went fishing. No success, even though we tempted the fish with tidbits of a chocolate energy bar. We saw another lizardy thing swimming in the water on our way back, and I was very thankful none of us had fallen in. Though, given the rest of the week, it would have made sense if our bad-water-luck had started then…
I liked Penang. Erika commented that it’s the place that made her feel like she was the farthest from home that she’d ever been (and that’s saying a lot sense she’s been to Japan, Turkey, and Egypt, among others). She thought it was like being in both China and India at the same time. We went to a lot of food stalls and Erika got addicted to Milo, a local chocolate drink and Roti, Indian bread.
Erika buys a lot when she travels. She convinced me to buy some bright colored silk Indian fabric I wasn't sure I was going to buy because, "My kids would love to play with it someday." It was only a few bucks, so I guess it's a good investment in my children's future happiness.
Night Life
We spend a few nights at the Hong Kong Bar. There was an old framed poster there with a map of the world, with things like “hurricanes, wild dogs, alligators, mean men, lychees,” etc. written, warning tourists why they shouldn’t go to each spot…EXCEPT New Zealand, which was disproportionately large and had only good things listed: “best beaches in the world, gorgeous sunsets,” etc. I found it really amusing and wish I could find another like it! If ever you see something similar, get it for me! Regardless of the “good” country!
The second night we stopped by there, an old Irish man with a white handlebar mustache was there. My chair at our table was closest to his seat at the bar so when he started to talk to us, it was me who had to deal with it. Erika and Kin turned to each other and left me hanging. You see, he doesn’t like America. Go figure. And while I certainly am not a fan of America-of-late, I don’t want to be lectured about Iraq by a drunk Irishman (who claims to be Buddhist and has been traveling since ’58). What could I do but nod politely and try to escape?! The second time he leaned over to our table, it was about how many tribes of Indians there were in America and how badly we’d treated them. The third time, he took my hand and stroked the underside of my arm while muttering something…I thought at first it was just his thick accent, but turns out he was saying something in Russian. When I asked what he had said, he responded, “If I tell you, you’d slap me, but it felt nice, didn’t it?” Ack!
Another night we went with a friend of a friend to an “Indonesian discotheque.” When we got there, the place was empty, save the employees and two little kids running around and jumping on the dance floor. It was early in the week and also not that late, so I suppose that’s the excuse. Plus, they were playing normal Western music—until we requested some Indonesian music. After a drink, we got up to dance…eventually grabbing the employees and dragging them to the floor to join us. Unfortunately, our hostel had a midnight curfew!
The first beach mishap
One day we went to Batu Ferringhi, about 30 minutes along the coast from where we were staying in Georgetown. Kin got stung on his ankle and his wrist by a jellyfish as we were sitting on the beach right where the water laps up onto the sand. If any of you have seen the Friends episode about this, you’ll know that the medical remedy is…urine! So Erika and I did what we could to help the poor guy out. It was a medical necessity. It took both of us because neither of us really had to go and I suppose it’s also not a thing that you’d want to have to do alone! The stinging pain went away and within an hour, there wasn’t even a red spot left! Of course, since then I’ve learned that vinegar or lime juice could also work…though there wasn’t even any handy.
Erika and I went jet-skiing for the first time! It was a ton of fun, making me squeal with delight and send adrenaline rushing through me! It reminded me of something, though I can’t specifically say what…the memory has Katrina in it, high speeds, and cackling brought on by a slight amount of fear. Maybe riding horses at the Pyramids? I hate how my memory only gives me half an image sometimes!
Which reminds me of another thing: at one point Erika pulled a shirt out of her suitcase and I instantly smelled Home. Tide and Snuggle! What a fantastic fragrance!
Take two
Kin, Erika and I returned to Batu Ferringhi to lounge around a second day…we went to a really nice hotel resort to use their pool. After a little more than an hour, a security guard came over and asked if we were guests…we were told we had to pay 50 RM each or else leave since we weren’t. We left, walking alone the beach till we got to the hotel we’d been at the day before, with the plan to sneak in there instead. When all else fails, you can always play dumb…After a half mile hike, we got to a point where the water came in, forming a sort of stream. Kin went first, lifting his bag over his head and walking around some rocks to get to the other side. The water didn't even pass his waist. I started off next, closer to the rocks, stupidly. It didn’t occur to me that there could be rocks below the water, invisible to me. I tripped on some and cut my toe and shin. My bag fee to the water and then almost immediately Erika went down, also having run into the rocks. I grabbed my bag and headed back to where we’d come from. My cell phone looked like it was off but was vibrating for a few minutes. Erika’s toe was cut pretty badly; she handled herself really well, all level-headed and knew what to do. I wouldn’t have taken it so well. We tore off some of a sarong she had bought the day before to bandage our feet temporarily, until we could hobble to the nearest resort (which took us 15 minutes with our slow movement). Unfortunately, Kin hadn’t brought his first aid kit! We made it to a clinic and got our cuts cleaned and wrapped. My toenail is still yellow from the ointment we had to put on!
I took my camera to a shop to see if they could fix it. While we waited, Erika decided she wanted to go to a salon to get her hair washed because she couldn’t shower very easily with her hand and food cut. Now, this was an unexpected cultural experience. You see, Penang has a large number of “lady boys.” That is, cross-dressers. I still haven’t quite figured this out…surprisingly, they seem to be pretty accepted. Well, the hairdresser was a lady boy: long, flowing hair, a white shirt and tight jeans. Also, they don’t wash hair like we do either. Rather than taking Erika to a sink-chair, she put the soap on Erika’s dry hair, sitting up normally and lathered up there. It was until it was good and soapy that they went and rinsed it out in the sink-chair. The hairdresser said it was because it’s more comfortable that way, which I actually think is probably true. Meanwhile, I’m given a mandarin orange and Kin gets some complementary Chinese tea. While Erika’s getting her hair blown dry, I’m using a hairdryer on my phone, which I’ve rinsed with tap water to try to get rid of the salt.
In the end, my phone and my digital camera died that day.
It would have been a cheaper day if I’d paid the 50 RM (for all THREE of us even!). Erika and I kept playing the “at least” game, where we would list things that could have gone worse…at least we didn’t have to get stitches…at least we could still walk…That night we took a tri-shaw (a little cart for passengers in front of a bicycle) back to the hostel. All the drivers are ancient and super-skinny. It’s amazing to see them pedaling people around town in the heat of the day. This night our driver wasn’t so old…and he was drunk. He took my purse and made me put it around my neck, just to protect it from thieves.
For the next few days I had no cell phone. Everytime I heard someone else’s ring, I would feel a deep sense of loss!
Singapore
After two taxi rides, a flight, 3 buses and a subway ride, we made it to Singapore. Both of us were limping, so we took it easy for those two days. We saw two movies I highly recommend: Big Fish and Love Actually. We shopped a bit and wandered down Orchard Road, which is like the Rodeo Drive or 5th Avenue of Singapore.
Basically, I wasn’t impressed with Singapore….nothing to draw me back and make me wish to go again. I think it’s the first country I can say I don’t care if I don’t return to it.
I was sad to see Erika go--I don't think I've laughed as much in the last few months as I did this week with her!
KL – Penang – Singapore and back again
Erika and I went by bus to Penang, a little island about 4 hours north of here (where I nearly was going to live instead of KL). I invited a guy I had met for 15 minutes at the Cameron Highlands hostel where Bridget and I stayed. His name is Kin: Chinese, born and lived in KL until the age of eight, when he moved to Canada, where he most recently worked as a cargo pilot, but was laid off. So now he’s staying with some relatives and supposedly looking for a job, though it doesn’t seem he’s been trying too hard. I was hoping he was cool and the invite wasn’t a mistake, since I didn’t really know him—my instincts were right and he was a blast to have around.
On our first full day in Penang, we managed to figure out the bus system and get to the Snake Temple, a place where poisonous snakes are rendered harmless from the incense in the air. Then we went to Batu Muang, a ‘fishing village’ according to my guide book. We waited for a bus…and waited for a bus. A nice, bright yellow car slide up to us and honked, but we waved him on. I went to talk to a friendly couple working a portable coconut juice stand nearby to make sure we were in the right spot. They suggested we take a taxi or private car (that’s what the yellow car had been, it seems) because the buses were infrequent. After awhile, we decided to hitchhike. Kin had done it in Cameron Highlands, so stuck our thumbs out, though I was shy to do it. A few minutes later, another ‘private car’ came and so we hopped it. Not exactly hitchhiking, since we had to pay. He asked (in Malay) where we wanted to go in Batu Muang. Since we had no idea, we settled on a restaurant with “good food” (I was the spokesperson, with my limited, limited Malay). We ended up at an Indian café just like ones we could have gone to anywhere else and didn’t seem to get a sense that there was a ‘fishing village’ about.
After eating (I used my hands, to amuse the locals), we set off down the road in hopes of finding the waterfront. Along the way, I spotted a lizardy thing in a drainage ditch/canal that was about two feet long (though don’t quote me on that—I’m so bad at estimating distances!), plus a tail. We got directions, passed by a Buddhist temple, and ended up at another right alongside the docks. There were a lot of fishing boats and we decided to take a stroll out on the pier. This was actually more like walking the plank. There were gaps between the boards and questionable craftsmanship, making us worried that we’d end up taking a swim. As we neared the end, a group of men were at a side-docking area and a tiny Indian man in a pink shirt came out to talk to us. Again, I ended up being the spokesperson and for the rest of our time on the planks, he shouted his love for me to us. We went to the end, where we sat down to rest. We were offered some vodka from the men from afar and invited to go for a swim. We passed on both accounts.
Kin, being an outdoorsy type person, had a first aid kit and maybe a survival kit (?). I’m not sure, but among his stuff, he happened to have some fishing line and hook, so we went fishing. No success, even though we tempted the fish with tidbits of a chocolate energy bar. We saw another lizardy thing swimming in the water on our way back, and I was very thankful none of us had fallen in. Though, given the rest of the week, it would have made sense if our bad-water-luck had started then…
I liked Penang. Erika commented that it’s the place that made her feel like she was the farthest from home that she’d ever been (and that’s saying a lot sense she’s been to Japan, Turkey, and Egypt, among others). She thought it was like being in both China and India at the same time. We went to a lot of food stalls and Erika got addicted to Milo, a local chocolate drink and Roti, Indian bread.
Erika buys a lot when she travels. She convinced me to buy some bright colored silk Indian fabric I wasn't sure I was going to buy because, "My kids would love to play with it someday." It was only a few bucks, so I guess it's a good investment in my children's future happiness.
Night Life
We spend a few nights at the Hong Kong Bar. There was an old framed poster there with a map of the world, with things like “hurricanes, wild dogs, alligators, mean men, lychees,” etc. written, warning tourists why they shouldn’t go to each spot…EXCEPT New Zealand, which was disproportionately large and had only good things listed: “best beaches in the world, gorgeous sunsets,” etc. I found it really amusing and wish I could find another like it! If ever you see something similar, get it for me! Regardless of the “good” country!
The second night we stopped by there, an old Irish man with a white handlebar mustache was there. My chair at our table was closest to his seat at the bar so when he started to talk to us, it was me who had to deal with it. Erika and Kin turned to each other and left me hanging. You see, he doesn’t like America. Go figure. And while I certainly am not a fan of America-of-late, I don’t want to be lectured about Iraq by a drunk Irishman (who claims to be Buddhist and has been traveling since ’58). What could I do but nod politely and try to escape?! The second time he leaned over to our table, it was about how many tribes of Indians there were in America and how badly we’d treated them. The third time, he took my hand and stroked the underside of my arm while muttering something…I thought at first it was just his thick accent, but turns out he was saying something in Russian. When I asked what he had said, he responded, “If I tell you, you’d slap me, but it felt nice, didn’t it?” Ack!
Another night we went with a friend of a friend to an “Indonesian discotheque.” When we got there, the place was empty, save the employees and two little kids running around and jumping on the dance floor. It was early in the week and also not that late, so I suppose that’s the excuse. Plus, they were playing normal Western music—until we requested some Indonesian music. After a drink, we got up to dance…eventually grabbing the employees and dragging them to the floor to join us. Unfortunately, our hostel had a midnight curfew!
The first beach mishap
One day we went to Batu Ferringhi, about 30 minutes along the coast from where we were staying in Georgetown. Kin got stung on his ankle and his wrist by a jellyfish as we were sitting on the beach right where the water laps up onto the sand. If any of you have seen the Friends episode about this, you’ll know that the medical remedy is…urine! So Erika and I did what we could to help the poor guy out. It was a medical necessity. It took both of us because neither of us really had to go and I suppose it’s also not a thing that you’d want to have to do alone! The stinging pain went away and within an hour, there wasn’t even a red spot left! Of course, since then I’ve learned that vinegar or lime juice could also work…though there wasn’t even any handy.
Erika and I went jet-skiing for the first time! It was a ton of fun, making me squeal with delight and send adrenaline rushing through me! It reminded me of something, though I can’t specifically say what…the memory has Katrina in it, high speeds, and cackling brought on by a slight amount of fear. Maybe riding horses at the Pyramids? I hate how my memory only gives me half an image sometimes!
Which reminds me of another thing: at one point Erika pulled a shirt out of her suitcase and I instantly smelled Home. Tide and Snuggle! What a fantastic fragrance!
Take two
Kin, Erika and I returned to Batu Ferringhi to lounge around a second day…we went to a really nice hotel resort to use their pool. After a little more than an hour, a security guard came over and asked if we were guests…we were told we had to pay 50 RM each or else leave since we weren’t. We left, walking alone the beach till we got to the hotel we’d been at the day before, with the plan to sneak in there instead. When all else fails, you can always play dumb…After a half mile hike, we got to a point where the water came in, forming a sort of stream. Kin went first, lifting his bag over his head and walking around some rocks to get to the other side. The water didn't even pass his waist. I started off next, closer to the rocks, stupidly. It didn’t occur to me that there could be rocks below the water, invisible to me. I tripped on some and cut my toe and shin. My bag fee to the water and then almost immediately Erika went down, also having run into the rocks. I grabbed my bag and headed back to where we’d come from. My cell phone looked like it was off but was vibrating for a few minutes. Erika’s toe was cut pretty badly; she handled herself really well, all level-headed and knew what to do. I wouldn’t have taken it so well. We tore off some of a sarong she had bought the day before to bandage our feet temporarily, until we could hobble to the nearest resort (which took us 15 minutes with our slow movement). Unfortunately, Kin hadn’t brought his first aid kit! We made it to a clinic and got our cuts cleaned and wrapped. My toenail is still yellow from the ointment we had to put on!
I took my camera to a shop to see if they could fix it. While we waited, Erika decided she wanted to go to a salon to get her hair washed because she couldn’t shower very easily with her hand and food cut. Now, this was an unexpected cultural experience. You see, Penang has a large number of “lady boys.” That is, cross-dressers. I still haven’t quite figured this out…surprisingly, they seem to be pretty accepted. Well, the hairdresser was a lady boy: long, flowing hair, a white shirt and tight jeans. Also, they don’t wash hair like we do either. Rather than taking Erika to a sink-chair, she put the soap on Erika’s dry hair, sitting up normally and lathered up there. It was until it was good and soapy that they went and rinsed it out in the sink-chair. The hairdresser said it was because it’s more comfortable that way, which I actually think is probably true. Meanwhile, I’m given a mandarin orange and Kin gets some complementary Chinese tea. While Erika’s getting her hair blown dry, I’m using a hairdryer on my phone, which I’ve rinsed with tap water to try to get rid of the salt.
In the end, my phone and my digital camera died that day.
It would have been a cheaper day if I’d paid the 50 RM (for all THREE of us even!). Erika and I kept playing the “at least” game, where we would list things that could have gone worse…at least we didn’t have to get stitches…at least we could still walk…That night we took a tri-shaw (a little cart for passengers in front of a bicycle) back to the hostel. All the drivers are ancient and super-skinny. It’s amazing to see them pedaling people around town in the heat of the day. This night our driver wasn’t so old…and he was drunk. He took my purse and made me put it around my neck, just to protect it from thieves.
For the next few days I had no cell phone. Everytime I heard someone else’s ring, I would feel a deep sense of loss!
Singapore
After two taxi rides, a flight, 3 buses and a subway ride, we made it to Singapore. Both of us were limping, so we took it easy for those two days. We saw two movies I highly recommend: Big Fish and Love Actually. We shopped a bit and wandered down Orchard Road, which is like the Rodeo Drive or 5th Avenue of Singapore.
Basically, I wasn’t impressed with Singapore….nothing to draw me back and make me wish to go again. I think it’s the first country I can say I don’t care if I don’t return to it.
I was sad to see Erika go--I don't think I've laughed as much in the last few months as I did this week with her!
